29 May 2021

Sailing the Scottish Coast: Dolphins and Learning to Helm

Kate Markland

Our week of sailing from Largs to Oban along the Scottish coast was filled with breathtaking sights, wildlife encounters, and new skills for both Gabriel and me. Each day brought a new adventure, and it was the kind of journey that offered surprises at every turn, leaving us with memories we’ll be talking about for years.

On our very first day, as we made our way out of the Clyde, we were astonished to spot a submarine cruising through the water—a rare and thrilling sight that set the tone for the week ahead. By evening, we anchored near Holy Island, with its peaceful monastery. The sight of the monastery standing in the quiet evening light made for a tranquil end to our first day at sea.

The second day was a long one as we rounded the famous Mull of Kintyre. Thankfully, the waters were calm, making for a smooth sail and giving us time to take in the rugged beauty of the coastline. As we entered the Firth of Lorne, we were on the lookout for wildlife, and soon we were treated to one of the highlight's of the trip: our encounter with dolphins. Out of nowhere, three dolphins—two adults and a smaller one—appeared alongside us, darting and diving in and out of the water. Gabriel and I watched in awe, hardly believing our luck as they stayed with us for a while. The baby dolphin swimming close to its parents was an especially heartwarming sight, and we both felt so lucky to witness such a magical family moment in the wild.

Our next stop was at the Fairy Isles, where we anchored for the night. This spot was especially fun because Gabriel had the chance to try his hand at rowing, while I paddled around on my paddleboard nearby. He quickly picked up the basics and soon had the oars moving in rhythm, steering the boat with growing confidence. We explored the calm waters, and with some careful paddling, we managed to get close to a few seals basking on the rocks. It felt as if we were sharing a hidden world with them, a peaceful experience we both enjoyed.

After our time at the Fairy Isles, we decided to take a detour to Tobermory. The colorful houses lining the harbor were even more charming than in photos, and we spent some time exploring this lively little town. Gabriel loved spotting all the colours of the buildings along the waterfront, each one adding to Tobermory’s cheerful character.

But the week wasn’t just about the scenery and wildlife; Gabriel got the chance to take the helm and learn some sailing skills of his own. With guidance from our skipper, he practiced steering, feeling the boat respond to his touch as he adjusted to the wind and waves. Watching him take on this responsibility with such focus and excitement made me incredibly proud. He quickly grasped the basics, learning to keep the boat steady and navigate with a careful hand.

After sailing and soaking up the beauty of the coast, we finally made our way to Oban, our final destination. Our sailing adventure had given us so much more than we’d expected. It was a week of incredible encounters with nature, the sea, and each other—a journey we’ll carry with us long after the waves have settled.

By the end of our trip, Gabriel had gained not only new skills but a deeper appreciation for the sea and its wonders. Sailing through the rugged Scottish waters, with dolphins as our occasional companions and the thrill of the helm in his hands, made this journey one we’ll both treasure forever.

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